tinned sardines london pantry

Three ways with tinned sardines

Either I’m suffering from a bout of Baader-Meinhof or artisanal tinned fish (no, not the John West variety) is having its moment. Case in point, in the space of 10 days,  Nuno Mendes’ new Spitalfields market wine bar and restaurant Taberna do Mercado opened with a section exploring the gastronomic potential of oily conserves of the ocean variety. Days later in Lisbon, I spot pretty little branded tins all over the place and the Rough Guide is imploring me to visit a tin-tastic shop tucked away in Alfama exclusively selling these conserves. Then fast forward to the following thursday at trendy natural wine bar Septime La Cave in Paris, they peeled back the silver lid of a tin of sardines, presented it on a white plate with a wedge of lemon, then chucked us a basket of bread and a fork for scooping up said sardines and soaking up the lovely Mosse.

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